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Vertical caving is inherently dangerous. Don't go it alone—seek training and get practice!
In California, most intermediate to advanced caves include vertical drops which require additional skills to access. Cavers use single rope technique (SRT) to navigate pits and steep slopes. Instead of climbing rock, we rappel and ascend ropes. Successful vertical cavers have a personal SRT kit tuned to their preferences, knowledge of safe SRT, and plenty of practice.
Diablo Grotto holds regular SRT practices where newcomers can be introduced to proper techniques and veteran cavers can practice to keep their skills fresh. Check our calendar for upcoming practices. Below, we've listed the gear needed for a complete Frog system, which is the system most commonly used among cavers and the one we recommend newcomers use. While we give a few specific types of gear as examples, your preferences, body type, caving region, and — let's be realistic — budget will determine what you buy to make your kit. The suggestions here are tailored for beginners who plan to cave primarily in California and are putting together their first kit.
Components of a Frog-Style SRT kit
Harness. Caving harnesses are built to have a low attachment point, high durability, and low bulk. Do not use a climbing harness for caving—they are different! Try out different harness styles to see what works for your body type. When testing a harness, check for fit around the waist and leg loops, and then see how it feels on rope and while walking around. Strap style, buckle placement, and padding all factor into harness comfort. The MTDE Club and Singing Rock Digger are low bulk, one-size-fits-most options, while cavers desiring more padding can look at the MTDE Amazonia 2, On Rope 1 Goliath, or Alp Design Avalon harnesses.
Central attachment point. You may hear this called a D ring, half round, demi rond, or maillon (French for "link"). This closes your harness at the front and will be the connecting point to the rest of your gear. The Petzl Omni (screwlock or triact version), a carabiner meant to be loaded in three directions, is a good option.
Descender and connector. Your descending device threads the rope and adds enough friction for a controlled rappel. California cavers should consider one of the following types:
Microrack. Rack-style devices thread the rope through bars which can be spread and offer the caver a lot of control over friction. Most cavers opt for a steel microrack with a single or dual hyperbar. The only steel option currently being manufactured is the SMC Micro Rappel Rack. The BMS Micro Rack, which came in two frame lengths, was discontinued in mid-March 2025. However, if you find one for sale, most cavers preferred the long frame version (not to be confused with a J-frame long rack, which is used for drops of longer lengths than we have in California). A microrack should connect to your central attachment point with a ≥7mm oval quick link. The use of a normal carabiner is highly discouraged due to dangers associated with cross loading, so if you opt to have a carabiner as the connector, only use one designed to prevent cross loading like the Black Diamond GridLock.
Bobbin. These devices thread the rope through spools, are fairly compact, and make some rope maneuvers easier. They must be used in conjunction with a braking carabiner. Petzl devices (either the Simple or Stop) are by far the most commonly used. The bobbin should connect to your central attachment point with a locking carabiner, not with a quick link. A good choice of braking carabiner is the Raumer Handy. The Petzl Freino Z carabiner is a good option for Petzl devices made after 2019 since it serves as both the connector and the breaking carabiner.
Chest ascender. One of two ascenders that grip the rope with metal teeth and allow travel in one direction (up!). Petzl makes two versions for slightly different rope diameters, the Croll S and Croll L, either of which will serve a vertical caver's needs. Non-Petzl options include the CT Chest Ascender+ and the C.A.M.P. Turbo Chest.
Chest harness. This attaches to your chest ascender to help your body stay upright for optimal technique. The style you choose usually depends on your body type and needs while on rope. Take a look at the OR1 Frog "H" Chest Harness, Alp Design Bunny Chest Harness, and Out Standing Stitches SRT Chest Harness for a taste of different styles.
Hand ascender. A second ascender, when attached to a footloop, allows the caver to unweight and advance the chest ascender when they step up ("frog") in the footloop. They come in compact or handled varieties; some cavers prefer the compact style since they can promote better technique and are less bulky, but the handled style is easier to, well, handle. On average cavers tend to prefer a handled orientation opposite to their dominant hand (e.g. left-handed caver prefers right-handled ascender) but again, this comes down to personal preference. The Petzl Ascension remains the lightest handled ascender on the market, but it's worth considering other options like the CT Quick'Up+ or Edelrid Hand Cruiser. All three of these brands carry a compact ascender as well. Note: chest ascenders and compact hand ascenders are not interchangeable due to differing geometry.
Footloop and connector. This is a loop of webbing and/or stiff cord which attaches to the hand ascender. It connects into the hand ascender with a quick link or carabiner. Consider whether you like to step up with one or both feet. A few examples: the BlueWater Titan Footloop (all cord/loop for each foot), OR1 Single Adjustable Foot Loop (all webbing), and Petzl Footcord (webbing loop sewn to cord).
Cowstails and two carabiners. Cavers sometimes need to attach themselves to a traverse line or anchor. There are a few ways to configure cowstails, which should be tied with a length of dynamic rope. A common setup is to have a short and a long cowstail, tied with an alpine butterfly, figure 8, or overhand knot in the middle and poacher's knots at the tail ends, with the long tail attached to the hand ascender. You can also have a set of short and long cowstails and a separate tether for the hand ascender for increased versatility. Some cavers prefer locking carabiners due to their extra safety factor, while other cavers prefer non-locking carabiners for the lower weight and ease of use. It is recommended that any carabiner attached to the hand ascender be locking. Diablo members are welcome to come to a meeting or other event to receive a length of dynamic rope and instructions on how to tie cowstails.
Where do I go to buy all this stuff?
First and foremost: stay away from Amazon and any websites that seem to offer a steep discount. A full kit is expensive, but remember: most parts of your kit are life-safety equipment and your safety comes first. Don't be tempted by fast shipping times or too-good-to-be-true sales. You want to make sure you are getting strength-rated equipment directly from a reputable retailer.
Special note about quick links: don't buy them from the hardware store. Make sure the quick link meets a CE and/or UIAA certification and is stamped with its breaking load (BL) in kN. Examples include the Peguet Maillon Rapide and C.A.M.P. Oval Quick Link.
There are a few retailers, often run by cavers, who specialize in caving gear. Below is a non-exhaustive list of trusted retailers that sell vertical gear:
Domestic (last updated Feb 2025)
Inner Mountain Outfitters (IMO)/Elevated Climbing (run by the same people and websites show the same stock)
Outstanding Stitches (neat chest harness design)
REI (not much cave-specific equipment but they carry helmets, carabiners, pulleys, etc.)
Black Diamond (also not cave-specific but NSS members enjoy discounts through ExpertVoice)
International (last updated Feb 2025)
Oliunìd (high shipping cost outweighed by cost savings on European-made gear for larger/group orders)
Starless River (great for MTDE, Alp Design, and additional brands that are scarce in the US)
Finally, you may be able to buy used gear during the Diablo holiday party auction held each year in January, or new gear direct from vendors at regional/national events. Whenever purchasing used gear, inquire about the gear's manufacturing date and history. Soft goods like ropes and webbing should be retired after 10 years and hardware should be free of rust.
Content on this page was inspired by resources developed by the Southern California Grotto.
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